Garmisch-Partenkirchen: An alpine adventure

Photo by Noppasin Wongchum/Shutterstock.com

Located in the heart of Bavaria, Garmisch-Partenkirchen is a must-see destination while you are based in Germany. The town has a long history of association with the American military (the Marshall Center and Edelweiß Lodge are both based there), which means you can expect a very warm Bavarian welcome when you visit.

Garmisch-Partenkirchen: An interesting history

For hundreds of years, the town of Garmisch was fundamentally separate from Partenkirchen. Partenkirchen evolved from Partanum, a Roman town lying on the Venice-Augsburg trade route, with its first mention in history around 15 A.D. In fact, the Ludwigstrasse, Partenkirchen’s main street, follows the original Roman road. About 800 years later, Garmisch came into the picture as the German District, indicating that the Teutonic tribe might have settled towards the valley’s west. However, it was not until the 20th Century that the two separate towns would be connected as one.

With the discovery of the Americas just before the 16th century, ocean shipping became lucrative and overland trade suffered a sharp decline. For Garmisch and neighbouring Partenkirchen, the region was plunged into hundreds of years of economic depression; the swampy valley was hard to farm due to being swampy. Lynxes, wolves and bears constantly threatened livestock, and the region was plagued with epidemics such as bubonic plague.

As the fortunes of the area were affected by crop failure and disease, witch hunting grew out of the engulfing misery; notable witch hunts, trials and barbaric executions followed between 1589 and 1596. In fact, 10 percent of the Garmisch-Partenkirchen population at the time – or 63 people to be precise – were either garroted or burned alive. A gruesome history indeed!

The Winter Olympics of 1936

Garmisch-Partenkirchen is famously remembered for hosting the Winter Olympic Games of 1936 where for the first time in history, alpine skiing was featured. Both towns remained separate until 1935, when Hitler forced the mayors of the regions  to combine in anticipation of the 1936 Winter Olympic games.

Today, many alpine and Nordic world cup ski tournaments are held in the region, mostly on the Kandahar Olympic run situated on the Alpspitze mountain. Every New Year’s Day in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, there is a ski jump competition within the Four Hills Tournament.

It goes without saying that over the years Garmisch-Partenkirchen has always been favored as a top holiday spot in Germany when it comes to hiking, snowboarding and skiing, especially the Zugspitze and the Classic Area (Hausberg and Alpspitze Mountains).

Zugspitze

At 2,962 meters (or 9,717 feet), the Zugspitze is Germany’s highest mountain. Reaching the top requires the use of a number of lifts or the funicular railway. The border with Austria runs right across the peak and it is possible to go up from Germany, and descend using another cable car to end up in a nearby town across the border in Austria. To enjoy the visit to the top, plan to do it on a clear day: otherwise you could end up with zero visibility.

The skiing on Zugpsitze is fantastic on a good day and there are very few queues for the lifts. There are two blue learning slopes but no nursery slopes so it’s best to be able to do (at a minimum) some basic snow plowing before heading up. Zugspitze is a glacier which means you can ski on it quite early until fairly late in the season, but it is equally beautiful to visit during the summer too.

There are a number of summer hiking trails that lead to the top (the last part is actually a more like a technical climb so many people take a short cable car for this bit). To enjoy the thrill of going up the tallest peak in Germany, prepare for a two day hike to reach the summit. There are basic lodgings and food on a number of trails but it is important to book in advance and bring the gear you need. Climbing and hiking this summit is an attraction that draws tourists from around the world.

Photo by Michael Thaler/Shutterstock.com

Classic Area

For those who intend to visit Garmisch-Partenkirchen to learn to ski, head to Hausberg and Alpspitze, which combined make up the Classic Area ski-pass. Hausberg is the lowest point in the area and a superb destination for beginners, but it does get quite busy, especially on weekends. More advanced skiers you can start at the Alpspitze mountain and discover all the runs there before skiing across to Hausberg to join friends in the afternoon for a rewarding mug of steaming hot glühwein (but be aware that you can’t ski back).

In summer, there are some fantastic walking trails over this area (and beyond) as well as some awesome mountain-bike trails for adrenaline junkies!

Garmisch-Partenkirchen accommodations

Garmisch-Partenkirchen has no shortage of high quality hotels and self-catering apartments to suit every budget. The entire town is very used to English-speaking American guests. Of course you reserve a room (paying dollars!) at the Edelweiß Lodge, where you will be able to book ski lessons, hire ski clothes and use all the facilities. But to get the best out of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, live like a local.

Our favorite family-run guest house and spa is the Forsthaus Graseck, situated just above the ski jump and ice stadium, nestled in a mountaintop destination and accessed only by its very own ancient cable car (unless you have have a 4×4 vehicle). Aside from a warm welcome, wonderful local cuisine, open fires and very comfortable accommodation, they also offer torchlit tours of the Partnenachklamm (gorge) which is situated at the foot of the hotel and is a magical way to spend the evening.

Restaurants

For an easy budget food tasting rollercoaster start at the Cafe Konditorei Thron, which is always opened for breakfast, or fill up on roast beef with potato dumplings in the best sauerbraten source.

The Eibsee Pavilion at the foot of Zugstpize (out of town in Grainau) is a spectacular way to catch some lunch in a lovely place with a Biergarten and restaurant section outdoors.

For a really traditional Bavarian night out in Partenkirchen town center, book a table at Gasthof-Fraundorfer. There you will discover delicious Bavarian cuisine, traditional singing, yodelling and alpine dancing in a bustling family-run restaurant that has been hosting guests from far and wide since 1857. It’s very busy and service can be a little brusk, but it’s well worth it for the experience and the food, but you must book in advance. For a really magical entrance you could book a pony and cart to take your group on a little tour of the town before dropping you off at the restaurant.

Night life

There are many places to be in Garmisch-Partenkirchen at night, and you’ll find a great party atmosphere during the winter. The Underground bar stays open til late or pop into the Irish Pub where there is live music on most nights.

Garmisch-Partenkirchen has something for everyone. It’s a traditional old Bavarian town that offers modern winter sports facilities and lots of outdoor activities in the Summer. It’s very close to Munich, Neuschwanstein and Schwanau Castles as well as Dachau Concentration Camp, so you can tick a lot of must-sees off your list on your way there and back too!

Getting to Garmisch-Partenkirchen

By car, Garmisch-Partenkirchen is approximately 5 hours from Kaiserslautern or Wiesbaden, and 3 hours from Stuttgart. Check Deutsche Bahn for train options.

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