The other “Golden City”

Story and photo by Marion Rhodes, Contributing writer


The name “The Golden City” typically refers to Prague. Yet there is another golden city in Europe, much less well-known. It is the city of Metz, pronounced “Mes,” in the French region of Lorraine. Only about an hour and a half from the KMC, Metz is a great destination for a city trip with various purposes.

Architecture and history
The city’s nickname comes from its many buildings made from yellow limestone. When the sun hits those stones, the city is immersed in a warm, golden glow.
Metz offers an interesting mix of French and German architecture, thanks to the alternating rule of both countries. One of the most impressive structures there is the Cathedral St. Étienne, a terrific display of gothic architecture. Its nave is the third tallest in France at 135 feet, and its stained glass windows are said to cover the largest surface area in the country.

In contrast to this heavily French-nfluenced edifice stands the Temple Neuf, a neo-Romanic, Protestant church on an island in the Moselle River near the inner city. German Emperor Wilhelm II commissioned the church during the German occupation of Metz in World War I as a symbol of his country’s rule.

The city also owes its railway station to Wilhelm’s wish to transform Metz into a hallmark of German architecture. On the outside, the building resembles more of a Romanesque cathedral than a train station, with dozens of sculpted frescoes and even a clock tower.

In spite of these attempts to Germanize the city, the mindset of its population is predominantly French, even more so since the city has remained in French hands since the end of World War II.

***image1***Metz is also home to France’s oldest basilica, the church St.-Pierre-aux-Nonnains, which dates back to the fourth century.

A remarkable sight is the Place d’armes, a market square bordered by four impressive structures: the Cathedral St. Étienne, the town hall, the court building and the former seat of the military, which now houses the tourist office.

Similar to the Parisian example, Metz is trying to incorporate modern architecture into its classical heritage. An obvious display of this will be the
Centre Pompidou Metz – the first branch-off of the famous Parisian modern art museum – which is scheduled to be completed in 2009.

Shopping and dining
From the Place d’armes extends a shopaholic’s paradise. One of France’s largest pedestrian areas attracts shoppers to exclusive boutiques, little
corner shops, bakeries and candy stores.

Many international chains have stores here. Amidst this retail heaven are numerous cafés, restaurants and bars with outside patios whose chairs are filled with resting shoppers.

Tuesday through Saturday, you can find many regional specialties, including meats and cheeses, at the Covered Market – a large market hall opposite the cathedral. Metz is also famous for a large flea market (marché aux puces) that takes place every other Saturday.

When dining in Metz, visitors should remember that many restaurants close during lunch hours.

During business hours, however, the selection of restaurants is vast, with many Middle Eastern snack bars, crêpe-making street vendors and high-end restaurants offering regional delicacies.   

Recreation
Metz is also known as “The Green City” or “Garden City.” This nickname stems from its more than 470 hectares of green areas, which make Metz a recreational getaway. The city boasts more than 22 miles of walks along the river banks of the Moselle and the Seille, which meet in Metz.

It also has a botanical garden with a rosary and a scent garden, as well as a lake with a marina. Boating friends can rent pedal boats, rowing boats and canoes for a trip down the Moselle, where they can come eye to eye with tame swans.  

Getting there
Metz lies along the A31, about 45 minutes south of Luxembourg. Navigating the city’s narrow cobble-stone roads can be quite daunting, especially with a big American car, and finding parking can be a challenge. The best thing is to park in one of the park houses near the town center and walk the city on foot or use a public bus.