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Sicily seems mythical sometimes. After all, the island has been inhabited since almost after the last ice age. Homer took inspiration from the place for his epic Odyssey. Mt. Etna, an 11,000-foot active volcano, dominates the landscape. It’s a place famed for food, wine, sun, and organized crime. But Sicily is not mythical. It is real, and it is often incredible, especially in a place like Ortigia.
Home to Archimedes and a wanderer’s paradise
Technically, Ortigia is part of Siracusa, the hometown of Archimedes, the famous ancient Greek mathematician (he calculated pi!) and inventor who died fighting Romans and semi-inspired the most recent Indiana Jones movie. However, Ortigia is a place apart – literally, since it is an ancient city on a small island connected by two bridges to Siracusa – and culturally, as well.
Travelers love Ortigia, for many reasons. For one, the little island is a wanderer’s paradise. The streets are reminiscent of Venice, which is to say that most “streets” are actually labyrinthine alleys that snake every which direction, criss-cross one another, and leave newbies totally, wonderfully, and safely lost. Surprises lurk around every corner – local eateries that serve up freshly fried arancini (Sicilian specialties that are fried stuffed rice balls about the size and weight of a baseball, only much, much tastier than a baseball), museums, flower shops, and art studios.
Eating well in Ortigia
Perhaps unsurprisingly (since, you know, this is Sicily), the food is divine. Let’s start with dessert. Gelaterias are everywhere. Nearly all of them are good. Same goes for cannolis (Harry Potter fans should check out Mangano, in which the best cannolis in the city are served by a guy who’s a dead ringer for the boy who lived).
For quick eats or picnics, there’s a daily open-air market that begins next to a 2,500-year-old temple to Apollo. The market has fresh fruits and veggies, candies, spices, fresh seafood, cheese, and much more. At the other end of the market street, you can find the semi-famed Caseificio Borderi. Antonio, the unabashedly seafood-loving genius who runs the place, makes a daily batch of empanadas. They’re not to be missed. The ingredients vary, and when he sells out of them, you’re out of luck. Tell him you love the Italian soccer club Juventus, and he might give you a hug. For restaurants, you can find pizza, seafood, and so much more — and often for reasonable prices.
Weather and must-sees
Then, of course, there’s the weather. Okay, Sicily can be crazy hot during the summer. But even then, Ortigia is a good spot. The sea breeze often makes it much cooler than inland destinations. Swimming is definitely encouraged in the summer and visitors can also seek solace in the dark, narrow streets, which act as manmade canyons. During the other three seasons, Ortigia is a paradise. You’ve got sun and warmth, which sometimes feel like miracles if you’ve been living in a gray northern European town from October to March.
Last, and certainly not least, Ortigia is packed with history and must-see sights. The first place on your list should be the gorgeous (and massive) Cathedral of Syracuse, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that was built in the 7th century on the remains of a temple to Athena that had been constructed more than a thousand years prior to that: You can still see column remains in the towering exterior walls. It’s one of the most impressive pieces of architecture in Sicily, and draws tons of visitors each year.
Next on your list should be the Castello Maniace, which was built in the 13th century, and which remains imposing. It sits on the southern tip of the island, looks like something from Game of Thrones, and is beloved by seagulls. Finally, one of the best things to do in Ortigia is just to walk the coastline. This can easily be done in two or three hours when moving at leisurely pace. If there have been storms at sea, the waves are phenomenal. Don’t worry, though: Ortigia has massive, 20 to 30-foot-high, sea walls, so you’ll only feel a bit of salt spray.
Side trips
If you’re feeling adventurous, use Ortigia as a home base from which to take day trips to the south and east parts of Sicily. Mt. Etna, with guided tours available, is easily visible from Ortigia, and is a 90-minute drive away. The hill towns of Novo and Ragusa are well worth a visit. And if you’re feeling particularly frisky, you can drive 2.5 hours west to Agrigento to see the jaw-dropping Valley of the Temples. It’s a little like having access to the Acropolis without having to navigate Athens traffic.
Getting there and when to go
Ortigia is a fantastic year-round destination, though summers can be very hot. Cheap flights to Catania, 50 minutes north of Ortigia, are frequently available from European mainland destinations.
