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Our last stop on our road trip around Kaiserslautern County will lead us to the Union Community of Bruchmühllbach-Miesau, which lies on the western end of the county along the banks of the Glan River.
The Union Community of Bruchmühlbach-Miesau consists of the individual towns and villages of Bruchmühlbach-Miesau, Gerhardsbrunn, Lambsborn, Langwieden and Martinshöhe, Vogelbach and Elschbach. Bruchmühlbach-Miesau is the administrative seat. The total union community has about 10,400 inhabitants with about 100 Kaiserslautern Military Community families who also call it their home.
Bruchmühlbach-Miesau is home to the Miesau Army Depot, which was founded in May 1949. At that time, it served as a point to transport and store construction materials for military facilities close to the Glantal train station in neighboring Schönenberg-Kübelberg, and now houses a multitude of military supplies and equipment.
Celts, Romans and a huge swamp
An old military and trading route existed in the area during prehistoric times. Celtic and Roman tribes settled on the edge of the “Bruch,” a swamp area, and the Westricher Hochfläche (Westrich highlands). Remnants of these early settlements can be found as grave mounds, coins, tools and a menhir called “Römerstein” (Roman stone).
Administrative areas, referred to as a “Gau” were established during the Franconian Empire starting in the 4th century. During this period the Nahegau, Bliesgau and Wormsgau were within today’s boundaries of the union community under the jurisdiction of the bishops of Mainz, Metz and Worms.
At the beginning of the 12th century, the Kurpfalz region, the Pfalz-Zweibrücken region and Sickingen County all ran together at Bruchmühlbach-Miesau. Due to swampy geological terrain, there were hundreds of ponds and lakes and many families made a living out of breeding fish or handcrafting angler’s equipment, while others in dryer areas were farmers or craftsmen.
From an emperor’s road to a customs hub
Many changes occurred at the beginning of the 19th century when Emperor Napoleon I conquered the area and constructed a permanent road, commonly known as Kaiserstrasse (emperor’s road), today’s L395, which served as a strategic military route. Along the road businesses selling horse wagons boomed and guest houses and inns flourished. The “Alte Posthalterei” (old postal office) developed into a busy mail hub with a lodging facility where Napoleon stayed overnight on numerous occasions.
Twice in its history, in 1919 after the separation of the Saar area based on the Versailles Peace Treaty, and again in 1948, Bruchmühlbach-Miesau developed into a customs train station with high significance well beyond the region.
Splish, splash
A very popular summer spot is a pool called the “Warmfreibad,” which is located idyllically in the middle of green. You can enjoy the sun, just relax in the large sunbathing area in the shade and take a break from your daily routine. There is a wide wavy slide and a current canal as well as splashing pools for the younger ones with a water temperature of at least 24 C (75 F).
Ready for spring cleaning?
The Staubsauger Museum (vacuum cleaner) in Miesau features a wide selection of vacuum models throughout the decades. Since 1990 Alois Steffgen has been a specialist for cleaning and vacuuming technology and during his career he was inspired to open a museum. In 1993 he received an inquiry from an 83-year-old carpenter who had a model Nilfisk S 59 vacuum cleaner that ran on 210 watts. He had bought the machine from his boss in the 1930s and as he couldn’t take it with him when fleeing during World War II, he buried it in the garden for a year. Vacuum cleaners were a luxury in the early 1900s and especially after World War II. Upon his return he dug it out, and although it was rusty, it still worked, and he used it until 1993.
Biking and hiking
There are several exciting biking and mountain biking trails that start in Bruchmühlbach-Miesau. The Fritz-Claus-Hütte Burg Nanstein Loop, the Panarama View Mirador-Ziegelberg Loop and the Höcherturm – Ohmbachsee Loop are a few examples. In addition, hiking enthusiasts have several picturesque trails to choose from. The Natural Habitat Elendsklamm is a certified and recommended German route which will lead you through an impressing “jungle.”
Saddle up
When the Riding and Driving Club in Miesau held its first tournament on a makeshift dirt track within today’s Miesau Army Depot premises in 1922, little could it know that the races would develop and become well-known throughout Germany. Three years later, a spectators’ grandstand was completed, and races took place every Pentecost weekend up to the war. The track was destroyed during the war but rebuilt and in 1974 races commenced again. Tournaments take place every year on the Pentecostal weekend in May or June and have developed into one of the leading equestrian festivities in Germany.
Heimatmuseum and a Happy Miller
The small museum on the former hayloft in Lambsborn displays historic agricultural tools and objects traditionally used on a farm for centuries. At the vintage farmhouse you can enjoy hands-on experiences of the life and times of a farmer and get a glimpse of potatoes, schnapps distilling and its history. Or you might want to visit a traditional mill. The Tausend Mühle in Bruchmühlbach is one of the last grain mills in the region and looks upon a 400-year ever changing history. The mill built in 1598 had a total of 26 owners, some of them rather obscure and whimsical people, who carried out their tasks as millers in a “hit or miss” way. Today the mill complex houses a small mill store where you can buy flour and regional culinary specialties.
Festivals and fun
The Wikingerfest in Elschbach in mid-September is a highlight and invites you to step back into the wild days of the Vikings and experience games, where ferocious men and women in traditional attire hurl stones and compete in tug-of-war. Other events include a traditional “Kerwe,” a village fest in every individual town or village, and in Miesau at the end of October. The Nikolausmarkt and the Christmas Market with smaller ones in the individual villages, will get you into the holiday spirit.
Fun facts:
Beavers are back in town! In the year 2000 there were only three beavers left in Rheinland-Pfalz. A “castle” built by a beaver family was discovered close to Autobahn A6 near Bruchmühlbach in June 2022 and about 300 of the rodents call the area home today.
The name of the River Glan is of Celtic origin and means “light, clear, shining, flowing” and is derived from the Celtic goddess Glanis.
For more information, visit www.bruchmuehlbach-miesau.de
Now that we’ve taken a close look around the county, stay tuned for a walking tour of Kaiserslautern in blooming May!
