State of the Art: Berlin, Brandenburg

State of the Art is a series introducing Germany as a whole, but also highlighting an individual state or “Bundesland” every month.

This month we’ll finish our tour around the last “new state” of Brandenburg to circle in on our final destination and Germany’s capital Berlin.

Brandenburg completely encompasses the City of Berlin and was inherited by “Albrecht der Bär” who established the Margraviate of Brandenburg in 1157. The 29,640 square kilometer state with 2.5 million inhabitants is a land of water with 3,000 natural lakes and 30,000 kilometers of waterways.

Sanssouci and a Dacha colony

Its capital is Potsdam, just south-west of Berlin with the State Parliament and Dr. Dietmar Woidke of the Social Democratic Party as Minister President since 2013. The city has 180,000 inhabitants, making it the largest city in the state.

As a UNESCO World Heritage site, Potsdam is famed for its 16 palaces, castles and magnificent buildings. The most prominent one is Palace Sanssouci with its illustrious gardens, built by Prussian King Frederick II as his summer residence 1747, the French name can be translated to “without worry.” Other attractions include the spacious pedestrian area with cafes and restaurants among stylish buildings and a Dutch quarter. Alexandrowka, a Russian dacha colony with small wooden cottages was built in 1926/27. The Babelsberg film studios were established in the 1920’s. Heavily destructed during the war, the city has returned to its old glory.

Berliner Luft

Heading north-east we’ll reach our final destination Berlin. The city is not only the capital of Germany with the Bundestag and Bundesrat as federal government and Kanzleramt (seat of Chancellor Olaf Scholz) but is also a city state of its own.

On a state level Berlin is governed by a Senate with Kai Wegner of the Christian Democratic Party as head of state, entitled “Regierender Bürgermeister” (Governing Mayor of Berlin). He is the leader of the Senate in the Rote Rathaus (Red City Hall) and has been in office since April. Berlin is Germany’s largest city with 3.7 million inhabitants on an area of 877 square kilometers, but it has not always been the capital. According to a popular operetta written in 1904, the “Berliner Luft, Luft, Luft” has a special air, or flair that cannot be compared to any other city.

A mighty Berlin Bear

If you’ve ever wondered why a bear is the heraldic animal depicted on Berlin’s coat of arms, there are two theories. One says that the bear can be traced back to “Albrecht der Bär,” who founded the Margraviate of Brandenburg. The other suggests that the bear has been on the coat of arms since 1280 and is derived from the Slavik word “berl,” which means a swamp. About 7,000 years ago the area around Berlin was a jungle, which led to various swamps, wetlands and waterways developing throughout the millenniums. A bear is a symbol of strength and perseverance and the people of Berlin have shown these traits on a rollercoaster ride full of bustling, dramatic and exciting events throughout history.

Let us start our city tour in an elegant horse-drawn carriage through Brandenburger Tor to be greeted by Quadriga on top, coming from Brandenburg along “Unter den Linden” Boulevard in the year 1791, and stepping into a journey through time.

Early Years

The core of Berlin can be attributed to the two towns of “Cölln” on the Fischerinsel (Fisher Island) and Berlin across the Spree River. The two towns formed close economic and social ties and profited from staple rights on two important trading routes leading south to Italy and from Belgium to Novgorod in Russia.

In 1701 Frederick I crowned himself as King of Prussia and declared Berlin as his new capital, replacing Königsberg (now known as Kaliningrad in Russia). The town quickly grew and merged with the four cities of Cölln, Friedrichswerder, Friedrichstadt and Dorotheenstadt under the official name “Royal Capital and Residence of Berlin” until 1871. The city prospered, and prestigious buildings were erected, parks and walking paths along the Spree River were created and the city experienced overall beautification.

The world famous Brandenburger Tor was constructed from 1788 to 1791, intended to be the highlight of the boulevard “Unter den Linden” lined with lime trees. The boulevard greeted visitors entering the city and the gate was topped off with a copper figure depicting Eirene, Goddess of Peace, steering a chariot with four horses. The Quadriga was originally positioned facing Brandenburg.

In October 1806 French troops marched through the gate and Napoleon had the Quadriga removed and taken to Paris. In 1814 the Prussians retrieved the figure and re-mounted it in opposite direction facing the city. The famous gate has become a symbol of turmoil and destruction, but also hope and reconciliation throughout time.

In 1871 the city was declared the capital of the German Empire under Emperor Wilhelm I and Otto von Bismarck became Germany’s first elected chancellor until 1890. The mighty Reichstag building was completed in 1884 and Berlin experienced an economic upswing after industrialization and a rapid growth in population. By the late 1890’s Berlin had become an industrial city with 800,000 inhabitants and poor sanitary conditions led to the construction of public toilets and bath houses, and a modern wastewater system was installed throughout the city. It also evolved into the main railway hub and economic center of Germany.

Turn of the century

Improvements to the infrastructure were made and the first subway was opened in 1902. Cultural sites were established, museums opened, music performances played a leading role, and the Opera House and Theater (Schauspielhaus) were built. The world famous and luxurious Adlon Hotel at Pariser Platz near Brandenburger Tor was opened in 1907 and welcomed prominent guests such as politicians, actors and wealthy families.

Berlin was far from the battlefields on the western front during World War I that began in 1914, but residents experienced hunger and deprivation during the time, as many young men were drafted into the military, including farmers (and their horses) leading to a shortage of vegetables and produce. Women were forced to work in factories or take over typical male professions of the time to support their families.

Roaring Twenties

At the end of the war in 1918 the Weimar Republic was proclaimed with Berlin remaining its capital until 1933. The city quickly regained momentum in the post-war years and evolved into a boom town with entertainment, a wild nightlife scene, loud and smoky pubs opening at every corner, elegant coffee houses, liberal fashion for women and a boost for emancipation.

Writers, painters and humanists swarmed to Berlin and paved the way to an impressionist movement. Ernest Hemmingway visited the city for longer periods on four occasions, actress and singer Josephine Baker adored Berlin, while actress Marlene Dietrich born there started her career on various theater stages before making her way to Hollywood.

The city reached its zenith as a world capital, renowned for its leading role in science, technology, arts, the humanities, the film industry, city planning and higher education. In 1921 Albert Einstein was awarded the Nobel Prize for Physics. With increasing traffic including automobiles leading to chaos, the first traffic light was installed at Potsdamer Platz in 1924, with a policeman manually regulating the lights from a protected cabin. The Berliner Funkturm (radio tower) was opened in 1926, lovingly called “langer Lulatsch” (long lanky) by Berliners.

Dramatic Thirties

The stock market crash in 1929 eventually also paid its toll on the jolly times in Berlin, unemployment rose, inflation increased. The rising power of the National Socialistic regime in the nation clutched its angry claws over Berlin and moved into the Reichstag decorating it with large red flags. To put Germany into a more positive light, the Olympic Games were held in the city 1936, a massive stadium was built for 100,000 spectators and other impressive structures, such as the Reichsbankgebäude (Reich Bank building) and a system of underground bunkers were constructed during this period.

As the situation deteriorated, critical literature was burned, liberal critics were arrested and antisemitism increased. After the annexation of Austria in March 1938, the city was declared the capital of the “Greater German Reich.” On Nov. 9, 1938, nine of the twelve synagogues were set on fire during the “Reichskristallnacht,” Jewish shops were plundered and at least 1,200 individuals were deported. Berlin was on the verge of a total economic and political collapse as 90 percent of government officials were released from office, leaving the city in a state of limbo.

About 90,000 of the 160,000 Jewish citizens were able to flee, many to the United States or Canada. Events culminated on September 1, 1939, when Germany declared war on Poland and Berlin became the starting point of World War II, and the city experienced its first heavy bombardment in August 1940.

Devastating Forties

After six years of raging war, weary survivors and millions of displaced sighed in relief after Germany’s total capitulation May 7, 1945. By then about 70 percent of the city was destroyed, including the severely damaged Brandenburger Tor, the Kaiser Wilhelm Church (now known as Gedächtniskirche) and a large part of living quarters were in ruins.

With husbands and brothers having fallen, encamped as prisoners of war or impaired by war injuries, courageous women and older children set out to clear the rubble and debris in a concerted effort without heavy equipment and only minimalistic tools. Women used their bare hands, buckets or wheelbarrows to transport debris onto carts on tracks. The material was then hauled away and piled up on a total of twelve mounds around the city. The most famous and highest one is the “Teufelsberg” with an altitude of 120 meters, later turned into a park with a magnificent view and is Berlin’s highest “mountain.” These women gained fame as the “Trümmerfrauen” (rubble women).

As the rest of Germany, Berlin was divided into four occupational zones with French, British and U.S. forces in the western and Soviets in the eastern part of the city. On the best path of restoring the once splendid city in its isolated position amid the Soviet zone, disaster struck again when the Soviet forces directed a blockade of all three transit routes and water ways leading to West Berlin in June 1948.

Berliners faced starvation with a shortage of supplies, but Allied Forces were quick to respond and conducted an airlift from June 24, 1948 to May 12, 1949. Many of the dangerous flights sortied from Rhein-Main Air Base in Frankfurt. One young U.S. pilot came to be known as the “candy bomber” or “uncle wiggly” as he would “wiggle” the wings of his aircraft upon approach to Tempelhof airfield to let the children know that he was on the way. Gail Halverson passed away in 2022 but will always be cherished by “his” Berliners.

The next history changing event occurred May 23, 1949, when the Federal Republic of Germany was founded and the quaint city of Bonn was declared the provisional capital. Soon after, the German Democratic Republic was declared Oct. 7, 1949, and East Berlin became its capital.

Booming Fifties

With an overall upswing of the economy, often referred to the “Wirtschaftswunder” (economic miracle), Berlin soon recovered in the early fifties and job opportunities opened for both West and East Berliners. Despite the separation, both sides could fairly easily transit the zones. However, the next dark cloud was already looming when about one million East Germans, 100,000 alone in Berlin, stood up in peaceful protest against the political and economic situation. They raised their concerns about growing social problems, paternalism and repression. June 17, 1953, the East German government responded with bloody brutality and at least 55 persons died during the protests and about 10,000 were arrested, while Soviet tanks were positioned and ready to fire. The broad boulevard leading up to Brandenburger Tor is called “Strasse des 17. Juni” in honor of the bold people who risked their lives. Until 1989, June 17 was observed as a public holiday in the Federal Republic.

Free-spirited Sixties

After the disaster both West and East Berliners carried on with their daily lives, but many East Germans deserted the country while they saw a chance. An estimated 2.8 million East Germans fled from 1949 to the early sixties.

Business flourished in West Berlin, a bustling new city center evolved around the KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens, Department Store of the West) and the elegant shopping mile Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm) near train station Bahnhof Zoo while West Berlin rose like a phoenix in new splendor. Beach vacations in Italy and Spain became popular and travel was affordable for West Berliners.

East Berliners were faced with low incomes, a poor infrastructure and jobs directed to them in state-run companies and production sites under depressing circumstances. Anyone that spoke their voice risked being sent to Bautzen, the most dreaded prison. Tension was rising during the Cold War era and East Germans encountered tighter restrictions and harassment when passing the access points to the western sector, and travel was limited to neighboring East Bloc countries.

Again, dooms day was on the horizon and despite rumors spreading throughout the country and wooden barricades and barbed wire fences springing up, the East German government insisted that there was no intention of building a wall.

Truth hit on a sunny summer day Aug. 13, 1961, when the last open access point to West Berlin was blocked and the first brick walls were being built. Realization quickly dawned on West Berliners that they were in the process of being encircled by a wall, while East Berliners watched in awe and desperation as the golden sun set in the west.